Truck Cap Struts | Genuine ARE Replacement Parts
Our factory-engineered gas struts keep your truck cap secure at every lift angle, whether you’re loading gear at the tailgate or accessing tools in tight quarters. Each strut is nitrogen-charged and pressure-tested to deliver thousands of smooth open-close cycles across temperature extremes. We design these struts specifically for the weight distribution and hinge geometry of each ARE cap model, so installation is direct-fit with no adapters or shimming required.
When you replace worn struts with genuine ARE truck cap parts, you restore the precise assist force our engineers calibrated for your cap’s size and material. The result is effortless one-hand operation and a cap that holds position exactly where you release it, every time.
Engineering & fit specifications
How Gas Struts Work in Your ARE Cap
A gas strut is a sealed cylinder containing pressurized nitrogen and a piston rod. When you lift your truck cap, the piston moves through the cylinder and the compressed gas pushes back, counteracting the cap’s weight. This converts a heavy two-person lift into a smooth one-hand motion.
Our struts mount to reinforced brackets inside the cap and on the bed rail. The ball-socket ends allow the strut to pivot freely as the cap swings open, and the internal valving controls damping speed so the cap never slams shut or flies open. Over time, microscopic seal wear lets nitrogen escape, gradually reducing assist force until the cap feels heavy again. Replacing both struts at once restores factory lift performance and ensures balanced support on both sides.
Signs Your Struts Need Replacement
The most obvious symptom is a cap that drops quickly when you release it or requires two hands to lift. You might also notice uneven lifting—one side rising faster than the other—or hear a hissing sound near the strut barrel during operation. These indicate seal failure or pressure loss.
Inspect the strut rod for surface rust, pitting, or bent sections. Any damage to the polished rod will tear the internal seal and cause rapid gas loss. Check the ball-socket mounts for cracks or looseness; a strut that rattles in its bracket can’t transfer force efficiently. If your cap has been in service for five years or more, or if you’ve cycled it daily in extreme temperatures, plan on replacement even if symptoms aren’t severe yet. Preemptive replacement prevents the safety risk of a cap suddenly dropping during loading.
Installation & Compatibility Notes
Direct-Fit Mounting
Each ARE strut ships with the correct ball-socket hardware for your cap model. Installation typically takes 15 minutes with basic hand tools. Prop the cap fully open with a brace, disconnect the old strut’s lower mount first, then the upper, and reverse the sequence for the new strut. Never stand under an unsupported cap.
Our struts are engineered for specific ARE cap lines—DCU, CX, Z-Series, and others—so verify your model year and cap style before ordering. The same physical strut may have different force ratings depending on cap material and size. Fiberglass caps require higher assist force than aluminum versions of the same footprint. If you’ve modified your cap with aftermarket accessories, contact our support team to confirm the correct strut specification. Using an incorrect force rating can cause the cap to over-extend or fail to hold position.
Essential Hardware & Seals for Your ARE Cap
Rated 4.8 by verified buyers
Common Questions About ARE Strut Replacement
Check the label inside your cap near the front bulkhead—it lists your cap model and year. You can also measure the extended and compressed length of your existing strut and contact our parts team with those dimensions and your truck year and bed length. We maintain fitment data for every ARE cap produced since 1970, so we can cross-reference the correct strut by VIN or cap serial number if needed.
We strongly recommend replacing both struts at the same time. Even if only one side shows obvious failure, the other strut has experienced the same wear and will likely fail soon. Mismatched struts create uneven lift force that can twist your cap and stress the hinges. Replacing as a pair ensures balanced operation and prevents premature wear on other hardware.
Aftermarket struts are often manufactured to generic force ratings that don’t account for your cap’s specific weight, material, and hinge geometry. Our factory struts are engineered and tested for each cap model, ensuring the correct assist force and mounting geometry. Using the wrong force rating can cause the cap to over-extend, slam shut, or fail to hold position. Genuine parts also carry our factory warranty and direct support.
Most installations require only a 10mm socket wrench or adjustable pliers to remove the ball-socket retaining clips. You’ll also need a sturdy prop or helper to support the cap while both struts are disconnected—never work under an unsupported cap. The job typically takes 15 to 20 minutes if you have the correct part number. Detailed instructions are included with every strut set.
Under normal use, our struts deliver five to seven years of reliable service or around 15,000 open-close cycles, whichever comes first. Heavy daily use, extreme temperature cycling, or exposure to road salt can shorten lifespan. If you notice the cap feeling heavier to lift or dropping faster than usual, plan on replacement even if the struts haven’t reached the typical service interval.
If new struts are correctly installed but the cap still creeps downward, verify that you ordered the correct force rating for your cap model. Fiberglass caps require higher assist force than aluminum versions. Also check that both ball sockets are fully seated in their brackets—a strut that isn’t locked in place can’t transfer full force. If the problem persists, contact our support team; you may have received the wrong part number by mistake.
No. Our gas struts are permanently sealed and lubricated at the factory. Adding grease or oil to the exposed rod can attract dirt and damage the internal seal. Simply wipe the rod clean with a dry cloth after exposure to mud or salt. The ball sockets are self-lubricating and require no maintenance beyond occasional inspection for cracks or looseness.